It was shocking to hear about the hooligan-related death last Friday. Anyone that has been to a match in Italy or knows anything about the football culture there will probably not have been surprised by it unfortunately.
My short visit to Milan in 2003 to watch Wales play was an eye-opener. As I walked around the ground I could feel the menace in the air. For a start I could sense that the sight of my red shirt, when I was away from the mass of our support, attracted some attention. (The international system of blokes trying to be funny in front of their mates by shouting stuff indicated this) As I waited for Gaz to show up I could feel the atmosphere tensing. With outright Fascist symbolism banned subtle designs, e.g. Runic symbols, could be seen on t-shirts. Those wearing such t-shirts looked like they could turn nasty in a very short time, not the sort of people to ask for directions. I even saw an brief attempt to deprive some Carmarthen fans of their flag. In short I didn't feel safe outside the ground.
Just before entering a steward shouted "Inglese" and pointed in the general direction that we were supposed to travel, not a good start. After I entered I was waiting for Gaz to come back from the toilet and a cup of orange liquid landed upon my head, I hoped it was orange cordial. I was lucky, for the next 2 hours we were subject to a barrage of objects (Batteries, coins, lighters etc) and bodily fluids. When some people had the temerity to complain to the police blank stares were returned. There was absolutely no attempt to try to get those throwing items to stop. When there was a hint of trouble from some members of Soul Crew and their acolytes it was met with batons from the riot police.
After this Wales lost 4-0, as we all know. To add salt to the wound we were kept in the ground for an hour and a half. Whilst the joyous Italians left we could see them descending those ramps on the outside of the San Siro. Even kids were making hand gestures at us. That evening has made me think twice about going to matches in Italy. I don't think my experience is unique either.
To me there has always been a glamourous edge to Italian football. When I saw pictures of Maradona, Platini, Gullit and Rush in their kits there was an exotic air to it all. Italia '90 gave me the impression that Italian clubs play in pristine modern stadiums that were architecturally interesting. This impression was further reinforced by Sgorio and Channel 4's coverage of Serie A. When I finally made it to an Italian ground I found it to be a wonderfully apt metaphor for the state of Italian football.
The San Siro looks amazing on the outside, amazing from a distance and almost as good close up. Unfortunately the surroundings of the San Siro are marked by a jumble of criss-crossing defunct tram-lines, rutted and disintegrating tarmac and graffiti. The interior was even worse, primitive toilets, filthy stairwells and fascist graffiti. I was so disappointed that this cathedral of football and its surrounds looked so shoddy.
Similarly Italy are the world champions, the national league boasts some fantastic players and it contains some of the most famous clubs in the world. For all this there is also corruption, racism and a significant minority of fascist groups. The tragedy last Friday seems to have been treated as a wake-up call by the Italian authorities and this can only be a good thing.
